(via sat phone) They carried equipment to 10,000 ft yesterday and have moved to camp II today. They will return tomorrow and get remaining equipment and have a rest day at camp II. Weather is clear and everyone is feeling well!
Author Bryan Osoro
Camp I (7,900 ft)
(via sat phone) They moved equipment yesterday and today and are now at Camp I. Weather has improved and everyone is feeling well. They said to say hello to friends and family! I will update status in couple of days after they move to Camp II.
Denali
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More Cliff’isms
Also, the Glock 10 will create a “nice hole”
As you know, the heart of a whale is just under its flipper, which is where you’d harpoon one. Followed by a 61yr old man harpooning said whale on a 12ft kayak only to leave it for the local village to dismantle it over the course of 13 days.
His wife killed a 6ft sea otter, and then a beluga whale. Apparently, when you open up a beluga whale’s head, it’s full of hard jello, which is how the sonar works.
If a cop asks you if you have drugs in the car, the appropriate response is to ask if the cop has drugs because you can’t find any.
More will come as we recall the enlightening trip.
-bryan
In Talkeetna
We have arrived in Talkeetna after an awesome journey here with our driver, Cliff Cloud. I learned more in a two hour period of time than I have in months. I learned that with a Glock 10 you can kill the burglar as well as your neighbor with the same shot. He is also the proud owner of a 60lb fossilized sloth’s toenail.
Other great Cliff’isms will be shared throughout the duration of the trip.
We’re staying at the Fireweed hotel which is one of the coolest bed and breakfasts I’ve ever been too. They made us an incredible dinner to help maximize our caloric intake pre-mountain. I’m sure that we’ll be wishing we could eat it again soon enough.
– Posted from my mobile phone.
Is -20 cold?
Apparently it is pretty damn cold on Denali so far. I saw a report yesterday of -20 at 17,000ft.
Sure glad I picked up those Feathered Friends down pants and my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots. Maybe I need the full down suit too??
More motivation
With Brian D being on Everest right now (http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/readerblogs/brian_dickinson/) I’m getting even more exited to leave for Denali.
Everyone seems to be doing well, albeit cold, on Everest this year. Hopefully the weather isn’t an indicator on what things on Denali will be like. Cold is more tolerable than gnarly whiteouts, so we’ll see..
Giddeyup
17 more days…
Till I leave for Denali (Mt. McKinley – 20,321ft). Should be a great experience workin’ our way up to the top of North America over a three week period. I know that it’s going to be harder than any of the mountains I’ve done thus far for many reasons: volume of gear to be carried all the time, weather conditions, latitude and a whole host of other elements.
I’ll have a sat phone, so I’ll be able to call in updates on a fairly regular basis to give people an insight (hopefully) into how the expedition is going and what the progress is looking like.
More updates to come…
According to Alpine Ascents, this is roughly what our itinerary will look like:
Day 1: 8:30am Meet in Talkeetna. Meet at the Alpine Ascents Office (Climbers arrive in Talkeetna one day prior. All transport information will be forwarded upon receipt of application.) After introductions, orientation and final gear check we board a ski-equipped aircraft and fly to Base Camp on the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (7,300’). The flight to Base Camp is marvelous, presenting outstanding views of a variety of peaks including Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Moose’s Tooth. Upon arrival we prepare our Base Camp. (Glacier Travel review may be done on this day.
Day 2: Glacier Travel review.
Day 3: Carry loads to Camp I (7,900’). Snowshoes may be necessary between camps on the lower part of the mountain. Double carries are sometimes made between most camps to allow for proper acclimatization and lighter load carries. (Conditions may warrant us to single carry to Camp I).
Day 4: Move to Camp I. (This may be a single carry)
Day 5: Carry loads to Camp II (10,000’), at Kahiltna Pass. This route follows the Kahiltna glacier.
Day 6: Move to Camp II.
Day 7: Carry gear to Camp III (11,500’). We turn west and ascend steep terrain. Camp III offers exquisite views and vistas of the 3,000’ rock and ice face on the edge of the West Buttress.
Day 8: Move to Camp III.
Day 9: Carry gear to Camp IV( 14,200’). We will pass around Windy Corner, which exposes stunning panoramic views of surrounding peaks and the northeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier, 4,000’ below.
Day 10: Move to Camp IV. Depending upon climbing conditions, we may spend an extra day moving gear to Camp IV. This will aid acclimatization and break up the long carry.
Day 11: Rest and acclimatize Camp IV. The upcoming ascent is the most demanding part of the climb.
Day 12: Carry loads to 16,800’. From Camp IV we ascend 1,100’ of moderate snow slopes to reach the beginning of the fixed lines. Using ascenders on the lines to self-belay, we ascend the Headwall, which consists of 900’ of 45°- 50° snow and ice. Upon reaching the crest of the West Buttress, we enter the world of the mountaintops. The climb takes on an entirely different nature as the feeling of being amongst the clouds and peaks permeates the senses.
Day 13: Rest Day at Camp IV.
Day 14: Carry and move to Camp V (17,200’). We follow an exposed ridge around Washburn’s Tower, which merges into the main massif of Denali. Camp V is established on a saddle just above Rescue Gully and overlooks 3,000’ to Camp IV.
Day 15: Rest day. Rest and prepare for the summit attempt.
Day 16: Summit day. We traverse across a steep snow face to Denali pass. From here we follow gentle slopes to reach Archdeacons Tower and a large plateau at 19,400’, known as the “football field.” From the plateau we ascend on moderate terrain to the crest of the summit ridge. From this vantage point, we look upon the immense 8,000’ South Face, with Cassin Ridge and the South Buttress in full view. As we follow an exposed ridge up the last 300’, excitement grows as we approach the top of North America.
From the summit we have a 360° view of the Alaska Range, with Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington to the south and Mt. Foraker to the west. These peaks, along with scores of others, mark this mountain view as one of the most impressive in the world. At the end of the day we return from the summit to spend the night at high camp.
Days 17 – 18: Return to Base Camp. From high camp we spend two days returning to Base Camp where we will board our plane and return to Talkeetna and then on to Anchorage.
Days 19 – 21: Extra Days. Extra days for inclement weather and acclimatization may be utilized at any point on the expedition.
Day 21: Return to Talkeetna.
Gettin ready to head to Africa
I think this will be my last trip across the pond this year. After climbing Kilimanjaro next week I will have climbed two of the seven summits (Aconcagua in January), crossed the Pacific Ocean three times, the Atlantic twice and below the equator twice all in one year!
Right now, here’s what the itinerary looks like.
Day 1 Moshi (915 m/3,000 ft) to Machame Gate (1,490 m/4,890 ft) to Machame Camp (2,980 m/9,780 ft) 18 km, 5-7 hours Montane Forest
Day 2 Machame Camp (2,980 m/9,780 ft) to Shira Camp (3,840 m/12,600 ft) 9 km, 4-6 hours Moorland
Day 3 Shira Camp (3,840 m/12,600 ft) to Lava Tower (4,630 m/15,190 ft) to Barranco Camp (3,950 m/12,960 ft) 15 km, 7 hours Semi-Desert
Day 4 Barranco Camp (3,950 m/12,960 ft) to Barafu Camp (4,550 m/14,930 ft) 13 km, 8 hours Alpine Desert
Day 5 – Summit Day! Barafu Camp (4,550 m/14,930 ft) to Uhuru Peak (5,895 m/19,340 ft) to Mweka Camp (3,100 m/10,170 ft) 7 km up, 23 km down 8 hours up, 7-8 hours down Scree and seasonal snow
Day 6 Mweka Camp (3,100 m/10,170 ft) to Mweka Gate (1,980 m/6,500 ft) to Moshi (890 m/2,920 ft) 15 km, 3 hours Forest
In Mendoza
We got into Mendoza early this afternoon with nothing on the agenda accept for an all you can eat Argentinian asado (bbq) later tonight. A few of the guys on the team and I are going to give them a run for their money, that´s for sure.
It sure was nice to sleep in a normal bed last night and get to take a shower again for the 2nd day in a row. Tonight we are staying at the Park Hyatt Mendoza, which will definitely be a huge departure from the mountain to say the least. I think that for the rest of the week we are going to stay at a hotel where a lot of climbers & guides usually hang out. We´re still deciding what to do with our few days of free time, but I think it won´t be a big challenge with winery tours, river rafting and city to check out all as options.
Anyway, I just wanted to check in one last time from the city. I get back on Saturday, and I´m very much looking forward to seeing everyone again soon.
I love you all. Thanks for the support!
bryan
Bryan's blog 