Author Bryan Osoro

Great Success!!!

Bryan Osoro 3 Comments

I´m sitting at Plaza de Mulas, which is the base camp on the other side of the mountain enjoying a cold Andes cerveza and reflecting on our group´s trip to Aconcagua so far.

We reached the summit of Aconcagua – 22,841ft yesterday just after 4pm local time. It sure was a long and hard day. It took us just over 12hrs round trip, and was far from the “easy“ walkup that a lot of arm chair climbers call it. We nearly watched a guy die from cerebral edema, and another Thai climber had perished on the summit a week prior.
7 of the people from our group made it, and we´re all in good spirits.- It was a hard climb, but we´re all in good spirits down here at base camp. Two folks left our group shortly after base camp, and another was turned around prior to Camp 3 which was nearly 20,000ft after leaving camp 2 which was about 18,000ft.
Anyway, my time is nearly up on this computer. I´ll update when i get back to Mendoza in two days. I love everyone, and can`t wait to see everybody again real soon.
We made it!!
Adios
bryan

Arrived at Camp II

Bryan Osoro Leave a comment

They are at Camp II, 17,500 ft. now and will move to Camp III, 17,800 ft. tomorrow. That will be the last camp before the summit. They will attempt the summit on the 2nd! Bryan had a head ache at a lower camp, but with some rest feels okay now.

Arrived at Camp I

Bryan Osoro Leave a comment

Bryan and group arrived at Camp I, 16,411 ft. He is feeling good, small head ache and needs to rehydrate. That is about how he would feel if he celebrated Christmas at home.

He next carries gear to Camp II, 17,500 ft…

Merry Christmas from Base Camp!

Bryan Osoro 5 Comments

Hola everyone. Merry Christmas

Today we have a rest day up at base camp after a really hard carry to Camp 1 (16,411ft) which took about 7hrs round trip. Aside from summit day, apparently that was the hardest day we should expect. Largely due to the heavy loads (>60lbs) in addition to the altitude gain. It was a hard slog up to Camp 1, and I was climbing strong until the last 15 minutes when I hit a mental wall. Fortunately, we were all but there, and I made it to cache the majority of my cold weather personal gear plus help carry group gear like fuel, food, and technical climbing gear. >I started to get a headache on the way down, and by the time we reached base camp, it was head splitting. Apparently that´s pretty common to get a headache on the descent after a hard climb. I´m feeling great today, and we are enjoying a rest day on Christmas. }

Last night all of the Argentinos celebrated Christmas eve with drinks, music & fireworks until about 1 or 2am. Some of the groups up here really know how to throw a party apparently, or so I hear. I was out like a light in my tent and slept til 8 this morning. Well, lunch is going to be ready in a bit and that is about the only thing on my agenda today, until dinner, and perhaps a nap.

>I love everyone, and hope everyone has a Merry Christmas Feliz Navidad.

bryan

Arrived at Base Camp!

Bryan Osoro 1 Comment


Bryan called and his group just arrived at base camp, 13,800 ft. He said they had a “great” beef BBQ last night that was prepared by the porters. They were climbing strong so expect to have Christmas day off at the next (higher) camp site. He is doing well so far!

Bryan Osoro Leave a comment

11 days and counting til I take off.

Here’s the day by day itinerary

Aconcagua Ameghino Valley Upper Guanacos Traverse Full Itinerary

  • Day 1

    Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing will be at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.

  • Day 2

    Drive west from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500’. Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. Afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.

  • Day 3 – 5

    Approach to Base Camp. Hike up the Vacas and Ameghino Valleys to Base Camp. Mules will carry our gear. Here we begin the route, which was established in 1934 by a Polish Expedition. Even today this eastern approach to the mountain is not as heavily traveled as the Normal Route. After three days of spectacular, colorful, high desert scenery we reach our Base Camp, at 13,800’. The hike to Base Camp is approximately 40 miles and gives us the perfect chance to begin our acclimatization.

  • Day 6

    Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp. This is an excellent method of acclimatization, which is our main focus throughout your expedition.

  • Day 7

    Carry a load to Camp I, at 16,300’. The route goes up a gentle trail on the rocky moraine-covered Relinchos Glacier situated between Cerro Aconcagua and Cerro Ameghino. Here we will be able to see Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by the direct sun. Return to Base Camp.

  • Day 8

    Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I

  • Day 9

    Carry a load to Camp II, at 17,500’. Fantastic view of the Polish Glacier. We ascend scree slopes to a broad ridge crest where we will establish Camp II. Today we reconnect with our UPPER GUANACOS VALLEY ROUTE! After reaching the Ameghino saddle, a gentle easy traverse takes us to the Guanacos.

  • Day 10

    Move to Camp II.

  • Day 11

    Move to Camp III, at 17,800’. A carry will not be needed today, since we have already done our short carry most likely the day before. This is an easy day where we traverse from the saddle to the upper Guanacos, elevation gain is minimum. This camp and tactic are key for our success. Using 2 camps at the 17,500’ level we save a day, which can be used later for a rest or a weather day at High Camp. On this particular day, this route creates one of the best upper mountain acclimatization possibilities on Aconcagua. The results are overwhelmingly positive: a team very well acclimatized.

  • Day 12

    Carry to High Camp, Piedras Blancas (White Rocks), at 19,200’.

  • Day 13

    Move to High Camp, from where we will tackle the summit the next day.

  • Day 14 – 17

    Summit! Weather permitting. We leave several days for our summit day in case of poor weather.

  • Day 18

    Descend down the Normal Route, all the way to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, at 13,800’. This will be quite exciting since we descend a different side of the mountain.

  • Day 19

    Descend the Horcones Valley with its impressive views of Aconcagua’s South Face. Mules carry our gear. Spend the night in Penitentes.

  • Day 20

    Drive back to Mendoza. Evening banquet with your team. Spend night in Mendoza.

  • Next Day

    Fly home or continue traveling in South America.

Trip guided by Aventuras Patagonicas http://patagonicas.com/